Wednesday, 9 March 2011
Defining "Difference" in Wine Media
Stags\\\' Leap Santa Barbara Shafer Shafer Firebreak Sinskey
Event Report: Urban Grape Quintessa Wine Dinner at The Capital Grille
Wine retailer The Urban Grape recently teamed up with The Capital Grille in Chestnut Hill, MA to kick off a series of winemaker dinners in 2011. The first, this past Thursday January 27th, featured wines from Quintessa and winemaker Charles Thomas.
Quintessa is owned by Augustin Huneeus whose Huneeus Vintners controls a growing stable of wine brands. Quintessa is a top-flight Bordeaux blend from Napa Valley that retails for around $135. Faust is a more approachable Napa Cab that sells for around $50. Illumination is a $45 Napa Sauvignon Blanc.
Beyond these Napa wines, Huneeus Vintners has added a number of prominent brands to their portfolio. In California these include Flowers and Orin Swift (who makes the bold QPR-favorite The Prisoner). In Chile there's Veramonte and Ritual. Quite a list of wines.
My affinity for The Capital Grill is well-documented at this point. Here's a review I wrote last year about their Master Wine Tasting Event in June. I'm a huge fan of their style of service, the quality of food across the entire menu, and the way their wine selections focus on guiding us to delicious wines in categories that expand our wine knowledge.
The evening started out with a reception featuring the Chilean Veramonte Sauvignon Blanc. I thought it was a fruit-forward and friendly way to start the evening. I had a nice time chatting up Urban Grape owners TJ and Hadley Douglas. TJ told me he loves wine dinners tracing back to his days with (wine distributor) Ruby Wines when he regularly did wine dinners.
If you're familiar with The Capital Grille's Chestnut Hill location, the dinner occurred in the private room in the back-left of the restaurant. The event was absolutely sold out and the room was filled to capacity. In talking to the people seated around me, there was a mix of big-time Capital Grille fans and Urban Grape clients as well. Everyone was excited to try the wines.
As the first course was served (a Winter Salad of Mesclun Greens and Endive Tossed with a Grapefruit Vinaigrette, Clementine, Poached Pear and Postachio) winemaker Charles Thomas greeted us, told us about the history of the Quintessa, and introduced the first wine: The 2009 Illumination Sauvignon Blanc.
Charles has been winemaker at Quintessa since 2007. His past experience includes Robert Mondavi Winery, Domaine Chandon, Cardinale and Rudd as well as being involved with the inception and creation of Opus One.
Augustin Huneeus's experience in the wine business started with Concha y Toro in Chile. Then a small winery, he built it up before coming to the US in the 1970s. He worked with a variety of brands then built up Franciscan in the 1980s. His efforts are now focused on Quintessa and related brands in his portfolio.
Charles described his approach with Illumination as being "careful with the oak". I noted light lime aromas in a soft wine that hinted at New Zealand but chose not to go for the pungency and zest. Not too overly fruity, especially for Napa, and especially compared to the Veramonte that proceeded it. Around $45 - I'd rate it 86 points.
The second course featured Alaskan Yukon Gold Salmon Caviar and American Sturgeon Caviar paired with the 2008 Ritual Pinot Noir.
Like other Chilean Pinot Noirs I've tried it was a bold wine featuring spicy notes. I thought it was racy, if a little rough and tannic compared to what I see in Pinot Noirs produced in other regions. A little rough and tumble. Paul Hobbs was a consulting winemaker on this one. Around $38 - I'd rate it 87 points.
Next up was the 2007 Faust Cabernet Sauvignon paired with Rosemary Lamb with Swiss Chard, Baby Carrots Glazed with Balsamic. One of my favorite dishes at the Capital Grille is the Double Cut Lamb Rib Chops - this was a slightly different preparation with the balsamic treatment and less crunch on the outside. It paired nicely with the Faust.
Charles described how the Faust came into being. They felt they could produce a great wine from the grapes they were selling to other wineries that weren't making their way into the flagship Quintessa wine. Faust provides an affordable taste of what they do, but stylistically it's a very different wine than Quintessa.
Faust is classic Napa Cab with big dark fruit up front and palate-flooding flavor. I found the back end of the palate a little limited and the finish a touch short. Still, it's a crowd pleaser. I'd rate it 89 points - about $50.
Then, it was time for the big show. The one we'd all been waiting for: The 2007 Quintessa. Before trying the wine, I asked Charles which other wines Quintessa is stylistically similar to. He paused a moment - perhaps thinking about how to position the wine compared to other elite wines, perhaps thinking about whether he wanted to pre-dispose our perception of the wine in a certain way before we tried it. He said some compare it to Opus One, Robert Mondavi Reserve, and Phelps Insignia.
After trying the wine, I thought Opus One was the most relevant comparison. It's definitely a new world spin on a Bordeaux blend - and a very good one. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Carmenere come together to form a wine that is slightly closed aromatically at this point (as you'd expect - the wine is very young) with tar, red fruit and just a hint of mocha. The wine distinguished itself with it's laser-beam of intense flavors on the palate, through the back end, and with a very long finish. I hear the thing you're looking for when assessing wines like this in their youth is length of finish so this bodes very well for this wine's future. I'd rate it 92 points - around $135.
It was paired with a Sesame Encrusted Tuna Served over Seaweed Salad Garnished with Pickled Ginger, Honey Wasabi, and White Soy. Perhaps an unconventional pairing (some opted to have steak snuck out from the kitchen) but I thought it worked very well. The sinus-clearing nature of the wasabi was tempered with honey and the salt from the soy came together with the rich fruit of the bold red wine beautifully. I'm not much of a fish guy and I devoured the dish.
Dessert was a Coconut Creme Brulee with a Sandeman 10 Year Old Tawny Port. Loved the creme brulee - one of my favorite desserts at The Capital Grille, but I'm not much of a Port guy.
Noteable:
- The group seated next to me was a fun bunch. They said they come to the Capital Grille at least once a week and always sit with our lead server for the night David Bresner. His approach typifies the Capital Grille experience - refined yet comfortable and down to earth.
- The groups said when they went to The Capital Grille's Las Vegas location the restaurant was aware of their dining preferences from their past dining at Massachusetts Capital Grille locations - they didn't even have to tell them how like liked their steaks prepared. I asked them how often they mis-cook their steaks: "Almost never." I thought this was particularly impressive given that one of them likes their steaks well done and the other likes them rare.
- They also recommended Carmaleno's Pushcart in Saugus - duly noted.
I'm always impressed with how well The Capital Grille serves a meal, especially to a large group like this. The Urban Grape's style pairs well here and they're not kidding when they say space is limited for these events. If you want to attend future events be sure to get your reservation in early.
The next dinner in the series is Thursday, March 3, 2011 featuring wines from Vias Imports - red wines from Piedmont: Barbaresco and Barolo! More info on The Urban Grape's Event's page.
I attended as a guest of The Urban Grape.
Check 'em out:
Loire: 2008, 2009, 2010 and more!
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Preview: 20th Annual Boston Wine Expo
The first couple of times I went to the Expo I thought I'd map out a list of specific wines I wanted to taste. Although I identified a few favorites and was able to taste them, that game plan went out the window about as fast as a strategy on Top Chef. That is to say the strategy didn't last very long. I had a game plan and after hitting a couple of them I went into survival mode and sought out tables with short lines and headed out when the crowds got too dense.
A few strategies that play well in any event like this:
- Plan your dinner reservations ahead of time (here's an option nearby the Expo)
- Arrive with a full stomach
- Spit as many wines as you can bear
- Spend time talking to winemakers
- Take time out for one of the free Celebrity Chef demos (schedule here)
- Nominate a designated driver, take mass transit, or hire a ride home
One thing I liked about The Wine Riot was their mobile application that lets you rate wines via your cell phone and see what wines are popular with other attendees. Great news on this front: The Boston Wine Expo is leveraging the same exact technology from the company that puts on Wine Riot. When you're at the event (or prior so you can register via your full-sized keyboard) point your browser to: m.secondglass.com
One thing I didn't like about past Expos is the lack of substantial food. After a while you were scavenging around trying to make a meal out of chocolate bar fragments and gourmet cheese samples. Good news: Looks like they've improved that dramatically! Here's a list of restaurants that will be dishing out free samples.
If you've got tickets to the Grand Cru Lounge, be sure to check out The Original and Authentic Wine Tasting Cookie. You've heard of wine tasting crackers but have you heard of wine tasting cookies? The cookies provide a delicious way to cleanse the palate between wines you're tasting. The Wellesley-based company is launching at the Expo and sampling their cookies in the Grand Cru lounge. I'll be doing a full story on them next week but for now, especially if you're a retailer and would like to carry them in your store, check 'em out:
Looking forward to seeing you there. I'm planning to attend during media hours tomorrow morning and at the Grand Cru Lounge Sunday afternoon.
Emilio Lustau, Sherry Dry Amontillado, ?Los Arcos? NV
Emilio Lustau, Sherry Dry Amontillado, “Los Arcos” NV originally appeared on Winecast. Licensed under Creative Commons.
Source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/Winecast/~3/nOPwDNjwl78/
Wine Publicists Promoting...Themselves
St. Clement Staglin Stag\\\'s Leap Stags\\\' Leap Santa Barbara
Tuesday, 8 March 2011
Social Media Quick Tip: Introduce Your Twitter Team
Source: http://familylovewine.wordpress.com/2010/03/08/social-media-quick-tip-introduce-your-twitter-team/
Two wine apps ? a brief review
Source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/TheWineConversation/~3/VHvQybd6d7A/
Stags\\\' Leap Santa Barbara Shafer Shafer Firebreak Sinskey
L?Espalier, Boston - Experience a Fine Dining
Source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/vagablond/ysSN/~3/xyQqKJWXBww/
The Frequency of Usage of Wine Words
Why Do Wine Blogs Need To Make Money?
Why Do Wine Blogs Need To Make Money? originally appeared on Winecast. Licensed under Creative Commons.
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St. Clement Staglin Stag\\\'s Leap Stags\\\' Leap Santa Barbara
A spot of wine relief
Source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/TheWineConversation/~3/ktMNHplCSAA/
Rodney Strong, Pinot Noir 2009
Rodney Strong, Pinot Noir 2009 originally appeared on Winecast. Licensed under Creative Commons.
Source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/Winecast/~3/RfxNKhPlt8k/
Monday, 7 March 2011
Emilio Lustau, Sherry Dry Amontillado, ?Los Arcos? NV
Emilio Lustau, Sherry Dry Amontillado, “Los Arcos” NV originally appeared on Winecast. Licensed under Creative Commons.
Source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/Winecast/~3/nOPwDNjwl78/
Facebook Group "Deals from the Vines" Connects Consumers with Wine at Unbeatable Prices
The first deal they announced was quite attractive. The 2005 Far Niente Cabernet Sauvignon carries a release price of $120/btl -- they offered it for $50/btl with free shipping via WineTasting.com.
Many of the deals can't be shipped to Massachusetts, but when they're compelling enough I'm sure a lot of us would find ways to get our hands on them. The winery-direct shipments are mostly from California wineries that have a relationship with VinTank -or- are favorable predisposed to trying something like this. Most include free shipping and favorable discounts.
A deal I took advantage of recently was on a unique red wine from Piedmont. The 2004 Gianpiero Marrone Langhe Sancarlo is a blend of Nebbiolo, Barbera, and Dolcetto from the Langhe region. I really like Barbaresco so I wanted to try this wine. I couldn't find much information on it though - no Wine Spectator or Wine Advocate review. It didn't even have a CellarTracker entry until this deal was offered. The retail was said to be $44.99 and the wine was being offered at $35.99/btl with free shipping. I bought a couple bottles.
The wine arrived about a week later. I popped a bottle open last night and thought it was outstanding. It was interesting trying a wine without preconceived notions of what it would be like, especially since the blend of grapes isn't common. I think it's a nice bottle of Italian red wine priced below what similar quality Barbaresco typically goes for.
If you're interested in joining Deals from the Vines point your web browser here -or- search for "deals from the vines" in the Facebook search bar. Ask to be added to the group and they'll let you in.
You can read more about Deals from the Vines in this blog post from VinTank's Paul Mabray.
If you're a winery or a retailer and would like to run an offer through Deals from the Vines, contact Peter Alig at VinTank.
Question of the Day: What do you think of the Deals from the Vines model? And their deals? What are some of your favorite sources of wine deals lately?
Napa Valley Golf Courses ? Any Good?
Source: http://www.winecountrygetaways.com/napablog/napa-valley-golf-courses-any-good/
Chono, Syrah Reserva 2008
Chono, Syrah Reserva 2008 originally appeared on Winecast. Licensed under Creative Commons.
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Born Digital for the best online wine content
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Somerston Tasting Room in Yountville ? Two Thumbs Up
Davis Bynum, Pinot Noir 2008
Davis Bynum, Pinot Noir 2008 originally appeared on Winecast. Licensed under Creative Commons.
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Fact, Reason and Resenting the Biodynamic Wine Movement
Sunday, 6 March 2011
Smoky Pinots and spicy Cabernets
Source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/TheWineConversation/~3/GhWPZqRptSc/
Stag\\\'s Leap Stags\\\' Leap Santa Barbara Shafer Shafer Firebreak
Last Chance for the Murder at Mardi Gras ? March 5 at Cross Roads Winery in Frisco, Tx
Zinfandel Tasting at Fort Mason in San Francisco: Win Tickets
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I got a good laugh
Saturday, 5 March 2011
A ?Zinful? Experience
Move over Old Spice guy, here comes Zin man
Source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/GuSC/~3/fCii5kN8fj8/
Academy of Wine Communications:Twitter Basics Immersion for Wineries
Royal Villa at the Grand Resort Lagonissi
Source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/vagablond/ysSN/~3/iTlUgpeL1Oo/
Field Notes from a Wine Life ? Benign Apathy Edition
Odds and ends from a life lived through the prism of the wine glass …
The Best Blog that’s not a Blog Pt. II
I’ve mentioned Garagiste and their daily email wine sales offers in the past. The Seattle-based wine purveyor is notable not just for their wine offerings (which are stunning), but also for how that offer is presented—their long-form daily email missives represent some of the best wine writing found anywhere.
For entirely different reasons, you can add Bottlenotes to that list as well (subscribe to their email at this link). If you’re not already a subscriber to Bottlenotes daily email, The Daily Sip, you should be. Since hiring Eric Arnold (ex-Wine Spectator and author of First Big Crush) as Editorial Director in April of last year, Bottlenotes has come to represent one of the best daily wine-related reads anywhere.
Taking a less wine-specific approach and focusing on wine people, personalities and stories, Arnold has proven he has a nose for interesting angles while asking the right questions. His writing leaves a reader satisfied with something they didn’t know beforehand, a neat trick given that every single wine-interested reader comes at the subject with a different point of view and knowledge base.
Case in point: Recently, Arnold featured a little known documentary making the rounds of screenings that features Julian Faulkner, a young Provence winemaker, and his struggles in the global marketplace. Arnold’s interview with Faulkner’s New York-based importer (Brian DiMarco of Barterhouse) caused me to pluck my wallet out of my pocket and buy the DVD. The documentary called “Escaping Robert Parker” uses Parker as the foil for the idealistic Faulkner, perhaps not as successfully as Arnold’s writing intrigues, but the documentary is wholly satisfying none the less.
In the documentary, Faulkner discusses a good wine not as a vehicle for critical acclaim, but as being good when it, “Gives pleasure.” It’s an oft-repeated phrase from the anti-Parker set, but Faulkner’s earnestness sells it as meaningful.
Overall, Arnold’s daily writing and the documentary are both satisfying ways to spend time if you’re a wine enthusiast.
Escaping Education
Speaking of “Escaping Robert Parker” and wine that, “Gives pleasure,” Elin McCoy (author of The Emperor of Wine), is featured in several vignettes in the documentary discussing the state of popular wine criticism – a part of wine appreciation that she describes as a declining need for younger wine consumers.
The role of the wine critic is a complicated subject, not easily placed within a neat box and a subject in which any opinion could be held up as having a shred of truth to it. Yet, in general, McCoy’s notion that critical scores are less important to younger wine consumers rings true.
I believe that not only is the role of the critic changing, but so too is the notion of education.
Historically, the wine business has lived off the “core” wine consumer – the small percentage of wine drinkers that drive over 90% of wine sales. So, when you see research from the Wine Market Council that indicates 1 in 2 Millenials are coming into wine as a “core” consumer it’s easy to see why the industry is excited.
By sheer numbers, life is good and going to get better ... from a volume sales perspective.
However, the wine industry in a macro sense encompasses more than just wine – it also includes all of the peripheral activities that educate about wine, as well – magazines, books, events, etc. and the entire picture can’t be viewed through rose colored glasses.
It’s the education portion that I think is in for the most dynamic change over the course of the next decade.
In large part, wine enthusiasm is a singular pursuit and serious wine lovers are known for being inveterate learners – reading books, educating themselves, tasting, traveling and then reading some more.
However, anecdotally, I’m seeing significantly less interest in younger consumers learning about wine as avocation, and instead merely looking at wine as something that, “Gives pleasure,” as Julian Faulkner so noted.
Last weekend my wife and I held an engagement party for my 26-year-old sister-in-law, her fiancé and their wedding party, all the same age, all 25 or 26 years old. The party was wine themed. Everybody was wine-interested. A lot of wine was drunk. My takeaway is that the importance of wine in that setting is its role as a social beverage. Education or knowledge aside from the correct pronunciation of names and regions and whether or not the wine is good (or not) is about all that matters, even amongst people with the same interest.
The implications for this can’t be understated. There was no geek talk. No discussions of alcohol percentages, styles, or anything remotely deeper than enjoying each other’s company with a glass of vino. This amongst a wine crowd.
I might be crazy, but if I were a wine educator, or a wine writer that focused on education, I would shift my focus not on the minutia of wine appreciation, but on the mechanics of how to say Chateauneuf-du-Pape without looking like an idiot alongside reviewing wine faults. That’s it.
How do you pronounce it and is it good, bad, or flawed?
Everything else is details, and, well, nowadays, there’s enough going on without needless detail…Right?
Source: http://goodgrape.com/index.php/site/field_notes_from_a_wine_life_benign_apathy_edition/
Three things you can count on: Death, Taxes and a truly memorable stay the legendary Hotel del Coronado.
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Mustard Festival Won?t Continue ? What to do instead
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Six from Le Cadeau
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Friday, 4 March 2011
Online Wine Writing and the Trust Divide
For about $100, the cost for a couple of profile tests, I’ve gotten to know myself better and hopefully you’ll get to know me better, as well.
Why would you even care? Maybe you don’t, but as a reader of this site you are a participant in reading the scribbling’s of an online wine writer. As Woody Allen said, “90% of life is just showing up.” By showing up, you are part of my wine life as well as others that take to their computers to live their wine life out loud.
Recently, spurred by year’s long acrimony that continues to rear its head every couple of months, I’ve been thinking deeply about how to overcome what I perceive to be a lack of institutional trust with online wine writers. It seems it’s not enough to write well, often and with knowledge of the subject. Derision is still manifest. This derision is not necessarily directed at me, but of the genre of online wine writing in which I choose to participate.
I have identified four contributing factors:
Systemic skepticism. Our national trust, according to the 11th annual Edelman Trust Barometer, has fallen precipitously low across business, government, non-profit and media. There’s never been a better time to not trust what you hear, see or read.
Information ubiquity. There’s too much information and opinion. The signal-to-noise ratio is dangerously skewing towards noise. While I don’t have facts to back it up, I would hazard a guess that the last five years has seen a greater quantity of wine writing than the previous 20 years combined. Here, when everybody is a critic, nobody is a critic. Put another way, when you’re supposed to trust everybody you end up trusting nobody.
Insularity. When I made my two year long sojourn into the wine business, virtually every meeting amongst relative strangers started with a recitation of their resume; this is a phenomenon I’ve not seen repeated in other industries. In the wine business, your credibility was vetted within five minutes based on who you know and where you’ve worked, not your bona fides. It seems interlopers need to earn their merit badge, a difficult and long proposition denoted by tacit approval and tenure, not a meritocracy.
Brands. Whether we want to admit it or not, brands, especially media brands, lend credibility to writers. Without naming names, a review of the weekly Wine Opinions “Wine Review Weekly” will reveal wine writers with column inches in major dailies that possess less experience than many online wine writers who don’t have a masthead with an engendered brand that burnishes their personal star by proxy. When talent is equal between two writers, the reader will defer to a brand—that’s marketing 101, and true of our media consumption, as well.
But, where to go from here?
Recently, online wine writer Pamela Heiligenthal asked an open-ended question about whether online wine writers should earn one of the alphabet soup wine certifications. She took lumps for her opinion, but I have a hard time arguing with her premise. Those that are serious about wine and writing will undertake a commitment to demonstrate knowledge in the form of academic achievement. Absent a brand, demonstrated knowledge is a hallmark of credibility. And, online wine writers will likely always face limited resources in creating a trustworthy brand.
In addition to demonstrated wine knowledge, I would also humbly suggest a move towards conscientious disclosure that leads to a holistic professional view of a writer that engenders trust.
In the realm of consulting and services-based business development, a touchstone is a book and philosophy called, “The Trusted Advisor.” The premise of the book is the equation that goes into creating trust-based relationships with your clients. In the case of the online wine writer the clients are readers.
In my view, the notion of so-called “transparency” online is a false positive and a little bit of bullshit, because a reader doesn’t know if you’re trustworthy so quantifiably alleviating that question is an imperative. Addressing that, a methodology has grown up around, “The Trusted Advisor” and includes a “Trust Quotient.” In loose terms, a Trust Quotient is made up of your credibility, reliability, and intimacy, divided by your self-orientation.
The Trust Quotient begins to alleviate whether an online wine writer can be “quote/unquote” trusted. But, it’s not the only factor. There are other factors, as well – what are somebody’s strengths, for example. A blog like mine that deals in issues and ideas may not engender trust if the style is contrary to my strengths. Here, the Clifton StrengthsFinder extrapolates on what I’m good at.
And, finally, a more subtle issue: How does a wine writer work? What’s their working personality? Are they subject to irrationality and flights of fancy that impact the quality of their work? The Meyers-Briggs Type Indicator® measures psychological preferences in how people perceive the world and make decisions.
These factors combined:
* What is your wine knowledge base?
* What do you do well / what are your strengths?
* How do you perceive the world and make decisions / what’s your style?
* Are you trustworthy?
All make up the whole person that fills in the credibility gaps that are otherwise deficient in a one-dimensional view of a writer through his or her writings.
So, I’ve created my own equation. If you know me, you would know that a math equation is the last thing that’s a strength, but this is relatively simple. My equation says: Respect = Your Knowledge + Your Strengths + Your Style divided by your Trust Quotient.
Assuming that those factors come out positively, than, ultimately, an online wine writer should stand in judgment against any other wine writer regardless of the masthead they write for.
In that vein, here are is the $100 bucks worth of analysis that I’ve spent to understand myself a little bit better. As my profiles indicate, I’m driven, work towards expertise, I’m self-confident, strategic and an achiever. To that end, I’m willing to stand in the court of public opinion in order to earn your trust and respect.
Jeff Lefevere’s Knowledge (Goodgrape.com archives from 01/05 – 02/11)
Jeff Lefevere’s Trust Quotient (initiates a PDF download of my actual report)
Jeff Lefevere’s StrengthsFinder (initiates a PDF download of my actual report)
Jeff Lefevere’s Myers-Briggs Type Indicator (initiates a PDF download of my actual report)
Finally, if it seems like I’m defensive, I’m not. My personality profile indicates that I’m a leader, responsible and accountable; it’s a mantle I take on for all online wine writers.
Source: http://goodgrape.com/index.php/site/online_wine_writing_and_the_trust_divide1/
New Years Eve 2011 @ CrossRoads Winery Frisco Texas
Source: http://thegrapesaroundtexas.com/2010/12/29/new-years-eve-2011-crossroads-winery-frisco-texas/
Napa Valley Golf Courses ? Any Good?
Source: http://www.winecountrygetaways.com/napablog/napa-valley-golf-courses-any-good/
Event Report: Urban Grape Quintessa Wine Dinner at The Capital Grille
Wine retailer The Urban Grape recently teamed up with The Capital Grille in Chestnut Hill, MA to kick off a series of winemaker dinners in 2011. The first, this past Thursday January 27th, featured wines from Quintessa and winemaker Charles Thomas.
Quintessa is owned by Augustin Huneeus whose Huneeus Vintners controls a growing stable of wine brands. Quintessa is a top-flight Bordeaux blend from Napa Valley that retails for around $135. Faust is a more approachable Napa Cab that sells for around $50. Illumination is a $45 Napa Sauvignon Blanc.
Beyond these Napa wines, Huneeus Vintners has added a number of prominent brands to their portfolio. In California these include Flowers and Orin Swift (who makes the bold QPR-favorite The Prisoner). In Chile there's Veramonte and Ritual. Quite a list of wines.
My affinity for The Capital Grill is well-documented at this point. Here's a review I wrote last year about their Master Wine Tasting Event in June. I'm a huge fan of their style of service, the quality of food across the entire menu, and the way their wine selections focus on guiding us to delicious wines in categories that expand our wine knowledge.
The evening started out with a reception featuring the Chilean Veramonte Sauvignon Blanc. I thought it was a fruit-forward and friendly way to start the evening. I had a nice time chatting up Urban Grape owners TJ and Hadley Douglas. TJ told me he loves wine dinners tracing back to his days with (wine distributor) Ruby Wines when he regularly did wine dinners.
If you're familiar with The Capital Grille's Chestnut Hill location, the dinner occurred in the private room in the back-left of the restaurant. The event was absolutely sold out and the room was filled to capacity. In talking to the people seated around me, there was a mix of big-time Capital Grille fans and Urban Grape clients as well. Everyone was excited to try the wines.
As the first course was served (a Winter Salad of Mesclun Greens and Endive Tossed with a Grapefruit Vinaigrette, Clementine, Poached Pear and Postachio) winemaker Charles Thomas greeted us, told us about the history of the Quintessa, and introduced the first wine: The 2009 Illumination Sauvignon Blanc.
Charles has been winemaker at Quintessa since 2007. His past experience includes Robert Mondavi Winery, Domaine Chandon, Cardinale and Rudd as well as being involved with the inception and creation of Opus One.
Augustin Huneeus's experience in the wine business started with Concha y Toro in Chile. Then a small winery, he built it up before coming to the US in the 1970s. He worked with a variety of brands then built up Franciscan in the 1980s. His efforts are now focused on Quintessa and related brands in his portfolio.
Charles described his approach with Illumination as being "careful with the oak". I noted light lime aromas in a soft wine that hinted at New Zealand but chose not to go for the pungency and zest. Not too overly fruity, especially for Napa, and especially compared to the Veramonte that proceeded it. Around $45 - I'd rate it 86 points.
The second course featured Alaskan Yukon Gold Salmon Caviar and American Sturgeon Caviar paired with the 2008 Ritual Pinot Noir.
Like other Chilean Pinot Noirs I've tried it was a bold wine featuring spicy notes. I thought it was racy, if a little rough and tannic compared to what I see in Pinot Noirs produced in other regions. A little rough and tumble. Paul Hobbs was a consulting winemaker on this one. Around $38 - I'd rate it 87 points.
Next up was the 2007 Faust Cabernet Sauvignon paired with Rosemary Lamb with Swiss Chard, Baby Carrots Glazed with Balsamic. One of my favorite dishes at the Capital Grille is the Double Cut Lamb Rib Chops - this was a slightly different preparation with the balsamic treatment and less crunch on the outside. It paired nicely with the Faust.
Charles described how the Faust came into being. They felt they could produce a great wine from the grapes they were selling to other wineries that weren't making their way into the flagship Quintessa wine. Faust provides an affordable taste of what they do, but stylistically it's a very different wine than Quintessa.
Faust is classic Napa Cab with big dark fruit up front and palate-flooding flavor. I found the back end of the palate a little limited and the finish a touch short. Still, it's a crowd pleaser. I'd rate it 89 points - about $50.
Then, it was time for the big show. The one we'd all been waiting for: The 2007 Quintessa. Before trying the wine, I asked Charles which other wines Quintessa is stylistically similar to. He paused a moment - perhaps thinking about how to position the wine compared to other elite wines, perhaps thinking about whether he wanted to pre-dispose our perception of the wine in a certain way before we tried it. He said some compare it to Opus One, Robert Mondavi Reserve, and Phelps Insignia.
After trying the wine, I thought Opus One was the most relevant comparison. It's definitely a new world spin on a Bordeaux blend - and a very good one. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Carmenere come together to form a wine that is slightly closed aromatically at this point (as you'd expect - the wine is very young) with tar, red fruit and just a hint of mocha. The wine distinguished itself with it's laser-beam of intense flavors on the palate, through the back end, and with a very long finish. I hear the thing you're looking for when assessing wines like this in their youth is length of finish so this bodes very well for this wine's future. I'd rate it 92 points - around $135.
It was paired with a Sesame Encrusted Tuna Served over Seaweed Salad Garnished with Pickled Ginger, Honey Wasabi, and White Soy. Perhaps an unconventional pairing (some opted to have steak snuck out from the kitchen) but I thought it worked very well. The sinus-clearing nature of the wasabi was tempered with honey and the salt from the soy came together with the rich fruit of the bold red wine beautifully. I'm not much of a fish guy and I devoured the dish.
Dessert was a Coconut Creme Brulee with a Sandeman 10 Year Old Tawny Port. Loved the creme brulee - one of my favorite desserts at The Capital Grille, but I'm not much of a Port guy.
Noteable:
- The group seated next to me was a fun bunch. They said they come to the Capital Grille at least once a week and always sit with our lead server for the night David Bresner. His approach typifies the Capital Grille experience - refined yet comfortable and down to earth.
- The groups said when they went to The Capital Grille's Las Vegas location the restaurant was aware of their dining preferences from their past dining at Massachusetts Capital Grille locations - they didn't even have to tell them how like liked their steaks prepared. I asked them how often they mis-cook their steaks: "Almost never." I thought this was particularly impressive given that one of them likes their steaks well done and the other likes them rare.
- They also recommended Carmaleno's Pushcart in Saugus - duly noted.
I'm always impressed with how well The Capital Grille serves a meal, especially to a large group like this. The Urban Grape's style pairs well here and they're not kidding when they say space is limited for these events. If you want to attend future events be sure to get your reservation in early.
The next dinner in the series is Thursday, March 3, 2011 featuring wines from Vias Imports - red wines from Piedmont: Barbaresco and Barolo! More info on The Urban Grape's Event's page.
I attended as a guest of The Urban Grape.
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